Polymer Clay update 2015 December

Aurora

Progrossion shot of Aurora

Little Mermaid

Spider Gwen

Jack Skellington

Sheep dogs

Polymer clay tips and tricks #4: Glazing

Last but not least. You've cooked your charm and it's perfect! The color is a little flat and you'd like to revive it. Ok, then here are the tips I have to glazing.

 

Step #1

Which glaze to use?

I have only liked the price and finish of one glaze type and brand... Varathane polyurethane water based gloss glaze. There are three versions, satin, gloss and high gloss but I use gloss. Sculpey has a glaze that is exactly the same but, it comes in such a small container I will not ever buy it again. It's just not worth the cost. It may seem watery and milky, but I like that. I can tell I'm actually doing something and I don't have a horrible thick layer on my charm so all the details still show. Plus, it lasts forever. I moved my Varathane from the can to a plastic flip-cap water bottle I got from the $1 tree and then for safe measure I duck tape sealed the lid to the bottle.

Step #2

How to apply it?

I use a round paint brush and just apply in thin strokes. If it's too thick it pools. Pooling is a little difficult to remove and it can also leave a bead of glaze on the bottom of the charm while it drip dries. Some people have suggested dipping into the glaze but, I find it is too much effort for a "fully coated" result. I don't like dabbing the bottom of my charm to take off the excess for a minute or more just to save time on brush strokes. Think about it this way, if you can't reach it with a brush and you can't see it, you probably won't miss glaze on it.

Step #3

How long until it's dry?

Only about 10-15 minutes. Sometimes faster depending on the room's temperature. It should appear to be clear, visually. Although, when I apply the glaze, unless it's pooled, I can't see the cloudy coloring, so I just touch it lightly checking for tackiness.

Step #4

How permanent is it?

Well... It will peel away without question if you just leave it after drying. No other blogs have suggested this can be a problem. They all say that the glaze stays on and is perfect. I have found that unless I take one more step I will regret it. So, I pop my charm right back in the oven and cook it for 15 minutes at 275 degrees with no preheating. Let it cool. And now you are done! 

You will notice that it is shinier and if you try to scrap the glaze off it should stay put. The glaze is not wear and tear proof, it will wear away over time. Unless you get into resin I haven't found a way around wear in tear.  My main goal is that my charms don't break and the findings don't rip out of the charms. 

Thanks for reading and see you again soon!

Polymer Clay Tips and Tricks Lesson #3: Cooking

This is the most important of all the tips I will have in this scratch the surface tips on Polymer crafting.  If you don't cook your clay just right... even if it seems good the first week, it will slowly decompose from the inside out until all you have is a crumbly nub of what used to be a fantastic charm.  How many have I cried over?  Too many.  There are no words.

So, let's fix that, and learn how to cook a perfectly cured polymer clay craft.  Phew that was a mouth full.

It's simple. The right temperature...
It was very easy for my toaster oven to temp fluctuate.  I have burned and under cooked many a project.  I've also left a horrible shiny spots on the base of my creations from where they touched the pan/ tile I cooked them on. The amount if time I cook them and how they cool matter very much.

Step #1
Containment:
What should you cook your charms in or on?
I like using casters/ loaf pans with silicon sauce bowls inside and strips of paper on top.  Then I put my charms on the paper and seal it with foil.  I know it sounds contrived but, I've found it to be the best way.  The paper helps float the charms in the bowl and free of shiny spots.  The silicon also helps with a few things, especially keeping the paper in a hammock like state to lay the charm on.  You will see the other use for the silicon later.
Sealing the charms in with aluminum is the only way I haven't burned my charms.  But, they still darken greatly.

Step #2
Temperature and cook time:
How long and at what temperature should you cook your charms?
Convection ovens are preferred.
I cook for 1.5 hours at 275 degrees and I leave it in the the oven to cool.  It is a heck of a duration and  it is worth every extra second. I used to think that Premo might have a bit of bend and that it's totally normal, but, I now disagree.  I want my charm hard as a rock. It will definitely not break.  So, that 20-30 minute cook time for every 1/4 inch thick charm will probably break if cooked in theat short a time frame.  But, if you cook for the 1.5 and leave it to cool, it seems to hold up perfectly.  It also seems good with Scupley III, from what I can tell, if it's a thicker object but, the color definitely gets darker.  Adding a little white can help with that. Also going a little lighter than you want the color to be is good too.  That way, it comes out about the color you originally wanted when the cooking process is complete.
Small note, Fimo didn't hold up very well in this cooking process.  It practically burnt, it darkens so much, and it ripped apart like it was a piece of bread.  So, I think I am going to stay away from Fimo for now.

That is literally all there is to the cooking.  You will have to modify the time based on the size but as long as it's sealed in and on paper, you should be all set!

Polymer Update November 2015

Jessie themed charm

Anne of Green Gables the Anime style charms

Samantha the All American girl doll charm



Doctor Who the Tenth Doctor

Thanks so much for coming around and seeing what I have been up to.  I will finish lesson #3 soon. It's going to be about cooking polymer clay.

Polymer Clay Charms Update October 2015

Haven't done much, but what I have done, I've done about three times before I have gotten it right. Hah.

So, here you got, the few charms I have done so far. :)

P.S. They are all passable if not terrible photos, sorry.

 

Ken and Ryu from Street Fighter II

 

Boy in Diaper with monkey kid leash on. (I will have to load a back picture later since I don't have it edited.)

 

Basset Hound re-do

 

Character from Naruto named Kurenai

 

Cocker Spaniel

Thanks for following me oh diligent friends. See you next time. :)

Polymer Tips and Tricks Lesson #2: How to add findings and connecting chains?

Welcome back to lesson number 2 in the polymer tips and tricks I have learned.

Lesson 2.1
Findings
What are findings and why do I need them?

1. Findings:
They are metal connectors, hooks, chains, screws and etc. used to complete your polymer designs.

You may think, well of course I need chain, key rings, etc. if I want to make a completed key chain charm.  There are just a few things to consider before going to your local craft or hardware store. 

2. What kind of findings do you need for your project?
I tend to use small hook eye screws in all of my charms.  It doesn't waste a lot of metal, and it doesn't risk me smooshing my piece trying to get a metal rod to go through it cleanly. 
Do you need chain for necklaces?  Or key chain and key ring for key chain charms?  Do you intend to make your clay into dust plugs, earrings, or beads?  Ask your self these questions to determine what your finished project should look like so you know what metal findings you will need to complete it.
I have only done full clay with eye pins or eye screws as my finished metal attachments so I don't have a lot of advice in this area. 

3. What is the best way to attach a loop/hook to my charm?
  I was using a technique I had seen many others use on You tube videos where you take an eye pin and wire cut it down so it is about 3 mm long.  Then you bend one end so it is shaped like an L then loop the other end into a eye hook.  You would then insert the pin into the charm and then twist  half a turn so it doesn't pull out of the charm while on a key chain.  It didn't work. They all came out over time.  The best way to use  an eye pin is to thread it all the way through the charm making sure it has a stud base then a loop on the other end.  It does work if it is quality metal and the charm will just spin around it and never break away from the finding. 

Otherwise the only thing that works for me are Eye Screws.
 

 They don't come out and I don't squish my work.  Here is how I attach them.

4. Should I buy the chain and key ring and etc. all separate if I am going to make key chains?
No, not worth it.  I have tried, bulk chains, jump rings, and bead ball chains to make my own key chains.  I do personally use ball chains for some but, I otherwise I have been ripped off with weak jump rings and aluminum jewelry chains.  (like the one I got at Michael's)  Just buy pre-made key rings like Aspire Split Key Rings or the like.  It's worth it to not have my chains break on me.

I know this wasn't a ton of info, but really you just have to try stuff out and find what works for you. 

See you again soon with Lesson #3

Polymer clay tips and tricks lesson #1: What clay to choose and how to store it?

Hello All,
I have learned a ton over this past year making my little clay figures.  Most of the time I was frustrated with my learning experience.  So many charms broken, lost from their chains or burned.  UGH!  But, learned non-the less.  One of the most exciting things I have learned is how to cook my charms so them become hard as a rock with no risk of breaking.  It took the whole year to figure that out, let me tell you!  We will get to that later but first, let's talk about the kind of clay you should use.

Lesson #1
Picking out the clay
When picking out a good polymer clay, their are a few things you should ask yourself.

1. What is available to you? 
I buy my clay online through auctions and otherwise Michael's craft stores.  The problem with that is the limitation to the types of clays I have to choose from.  I have never seen Cernit, or Kato clays which I have read are harder type clays and Fimo classic only appears to have 3 colors in the classic version.  So, for me it's, Craft brand clay by Michael's, Fimo soft and effects, Sculpey III, Premo, Super Sculpey, and Original Sculpey.

2. What is your internal temperature?
I run hot and I live in a very hot climate so harder clays are preferred.  The best I have run across is Premo Sculpey brand clay which is soft enough when kneaded but not gooey.  (atleast for me)  Other clays aren't bad, because I have noticed that if cooked properly, I mean really perfectly, you won't have to worry too much about breakage and so forth. 

3. Do you like your clay sticky, stiff, or just right?
So, at this point it is about texture and the stability of the clay.  You may probably assume it needs to be just right... not always.  Depending on what you are making you may want more adherance/stickiness, and if you are making something more sculptural then you may want something stiffer than you might usually use.  So, just consider your project before considering the brand of clay. 

4. Last but not least what kind of color options do you need and will they darken during the baking process?
Everything but, black and white have a little or a lot of darkening in my baking process.  I have learned to live with moderate or extreme color differences in exchange for quality and durability.  For example:  My royal blue Premo usually ends up a more navy blue and my very light yellow or sunshine yellow tends to dingy out a little.  Still, it's worth it to not get a call or a text 3 days later with another notification of random dismemberment or the screw detaching from the clay over time.

5.  Is Scupley III as bad as some clayers say it is?
I am back to square one on that one.  I am trying some of the Scupley III I have had stored away again with my new cooking technique but I still have to give it more time on as a key chain to see how it holds up over time.  One observation is it didn't hold it's color through my cooking process but it did get hard as a rock like my Premo does when I have cooked it properly.  I will say it was hard to work with only because it becomes mush in my warm fingers.  I have a feeling it would come in handy smearing it over other materials as a background or base for other projects.  But, if it does hold up it just opens up my purchasing/color spectrum back up again.
**Yes it is as bad as they say.  So is Fimo soft. Even with my full proof cooking method.**

You really need to just try a few clays to find out which works the best for you from start to finish.

 

This is my very old work space but it hasn't changed too much.  Ziploc bags are still my go to but, I will never work with Orignial Sculpey.  It's just good as molding clay not as cooked/ sturdy clay.

Lesson #2
Storage
After you purchase a few or more blocks of clay, what are some of the best ways to store it?

1. How much clay do you have? 
Take into account how much clay you currently have and consider the possible addition to your new collection.  Because Polymer clay does not cure unless cooked it will not go bad so you can purchase in bulk when there is a good sale.  So, whatever your storage solution is consider its possible, if not inevitable, growth.

2. What kind of climate do you live in?
If your house is cold or cool all the time then by all means leave your clay open and exposed and unattended all day.  It will be perfectly fine if not easier to work with if you run hot.
But, if you live in hundred degree weather and your house can easily reach 105 degrees when the AC isn't blazing on then you may need to think a bit harder about storage.  I would say 85 degrees is the hottest your clay's standing temp should get before you risk partially curing your clay.

3. What can you afford?
There are some really fantastic ideas about clay storage.  Some of which would not be cheap.  The best option for me, as much as it does annoy me at times are Ziploc baggies and freezer size Ziplocs.  I am pretty envious of Cindy Lietz's  ("Your polymer clay tutor" ) wall of hardware storage drawers which each store different colors and brands of clay behind her work space.  It's just an arms reach away from any color or clay she needs without any effort and it is so organized.  Jealous? Yes!
Well, anyway, I don't know if the climate in Canada is just cooler or she just keeps the A/C going when it isn't but, her clay seems to hold up just fine.  Now, that probably wasn't cheap mind you, so just make you are in it for the long haul, and/or will just use that type of storage either way.
There are obviously middle of the road type costs too so let's move on.
I had also gotten cassette tape drawers and they were perfect but, my house just gets to hot for me to keep my clay out of refrigeration.

4. What kind of access do you need to your clay?  Are you going to travel from room to room, city to city, or just like to keep things mobile? 
You may be interested in some of the caboodle style carriers/ toolboxes so you can keep all tools and primary clay in one space.  It is great for use in compacting into a tight space when not used and expanding and spreading out in your space when using.  I also love rolling carts and drawers for the same reason, wherever you need to work it can go and everything you need will be all in one place.
The wall of tiny plastic drawers is great if you want a designated space to work and you can do the same with any kind of small bin, jar, slot, whatever on a shelf, peg board or whatever you find.  Polymer clay can be stored in just about anything, just be aware that the polymer can leach out onto fabric and paper and some plastic bins can be eaten away by the polymer clay as well.  I haven't found a site that has specified what type of plastic is compatible and also haven't had any trouble of my own with any plastic bins.  It has been loosely suggested that you get whatever containment you like and test out a piece of clay in it for a week and see if there are any changes to the plastic... then again, I still use Ziploc no matter how many other storage containment I have purchased.  It always seems to come back to Ziploc.  At least you can always use sandwich wrap and Ziploc as a liner or separator from any containment.

3. What are some good storage options if my house is hot?
I didn't want to come home one day to partially cooked unopened polymer clay just because my house got hot.  So, my solution was to refrigerate my clay.  
I have read through many blogs about polymer and found out that a lot of people froze or refrigerated their clay to stiffen it a bit, especially for cutting canes of clay. (Clay Cane : A term borrowed from glassworking referring to glass rods either plain or with a pattern running through them, to be used as an addition to glass pieces. Canes were used to make millefiori beads. )  So, although it wasn't the cheapest or most organized way to store and organize my clay I got a mini-fridge and have been storing my clay there in large freezer sized Ziploc bags ever since.  It has been fantastic!  Ziploc may seem like my favorite storage but it is really the most convenient way to store my clay in a fridge.  I got the mini-fridge so I wouldn't have to leave my craft space just to get my clay, it would also be good for guests (craft room doubles as my guest room) and I would never have to give up space in our kitchen refrigerator for my clay/craft.  I have attempted to create or find some sort of bin/drawer system that will seamlessly move from the mini-fridge to my desk to no avail.  Until we move onto a cooler climate it's Ziploc and a mini-fridge so as not to risk my clay's integrity.

Find the clay you like, research containers, check out other blogs, look at the space available to you, the funds available to you, and how much you'll be needing to store before spending money on storage.  Remember, Ziploc, the plastic they are wrapped in or just sitting out on bare plastic, glass or metal is all this kind of storage this clay really needs.  It will not air dry by any means, so, feel free to leave your project where it lies over night and come back to it when you are ready and as long as it didn't get over 90 degrees and wasn't laying on a piece of fabric or paper it shouldn't have changed at all.

See you again next week for Lesson plan #2 in Polymer clay tips.

.... a few good website all about polymer clay.

http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/ : a one woman guide to everything polymer, she makes great videos too.
http://www.glassattic.com/ : hard to read but, the opinions about polymer clay are fruitful.

Polymer Charm update pt. 2 September

Finally took pictures and had vacation time to make a few new charms. 

So, here you go.

Strawberry Shortcake from the eighties

Strawberry Shortcake

Marty McFly and Doc Brown from Back to the Future

Assassin's Creed III Connor

Assassin's Creed II Ezio

Very blurry Radish Luna Lovegood Earrings



Paleontologist T-Rex Fossil charm

Harry Potter

Belle from Disney's Beauty and the Beast

Thanks for visiting.

Please come back soon. :)

Polymer charms of Septemeber pt. 1

Some of the charms I have been working on, only one good picture though.  Sleeping beauty was done a very long time ago, the boy's and the super hero charms were much more recent.

I really loved doing this combo super hero charm.  I think it was just as much fun as the individual ones but, I didn't have to work fully 3 dimensional.  Much simpler.  Plan on doing more like it soon.



Sleeping Beauty

Brother's in super hero shirts holding their favorite stuffed animals.

Super heroes: Captain America, Wonder Woman, Bat Girl, and combo charm.
The Wonder Woman has been customized with bangs and wavy black/brown hair, and Bat Girl has been customized with straight black hair.

See you all again soon!
 

Redo an Old outdated Lamp

 Redo of a goddess statue lamp from the 90's. 

Owl lamp from JCPenney's

I just love this new statue lamp craze I've been seeing around.  It so playful and yet still elegant.  Granted, most of the statue lamps are very minimal, one solid color, and generally smaller but, when I saw two matching goddess lamps with ruffled lamp shades through my local yard sale post on Facebook, I took a shot at a redo.  I actually felt like this came out pretty.

The Mid-Century modern cork shade and new paint I think may have taken it out of the 90's lux look I am not much of a fan of. 

 

 

To redo a plaster lamp:

1. Fill in any large chips and cracks (unless you'd prefer a more worn look)

I don't know if is right or not but I used spackle on mine and it seems to be working right.

2. Wipe down the piece with soap and water and let it dry.

3. Tape off all the metal and cording so the spray paint doesn't coat it.

4. Spray down the whole piece twice with Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra Cover primer (worth it to get the good stuff, trust me)

5. After it dries (wait at least an hour) spray it down with your favorite color.  I chose white just because I want it in my bedroom with my dark blue décor.

 

 

See you soon!

Nothing new

Sorry, I don't really have anything new to post.  I finally caught up on some house cleaning, and I have made up some charms but I didn't take any good pictures yet.  I hope to have some pictures and stuff done by Wednesday and maybe more by Sunday but, definitely doing a lot in September.  I have my vacation time in September and I am not going anywhere so, I plan to get a lot done.  New furniture re-do's on the way and lots of clay crafts, of course. 

I did get a small work space fix up. Love it!

My Dad passed down his old computer desk.  It's perfect for crafting.

My new (to me) hand me down desk and Walmart chair work space.  I love it!  I feel so much more comfortable!!!!

By the way, does anyone else have problems with pop up advertisements?  How do you deal with it?
Nothing else for now. Sorry again.

Jack Skelington Shoes

I love custom kicks.  Now, I hated making them though.  It's just way to much effort without enough result in my opinion.  I am just not a painter so I don't work very fast.  It takes me well over two weeks time to finish a pair.  I have tons if ideas though.  So, anyone needs the practice making me shoes I will be happy to provide you a few thousand ideas.

Anyways, here is my take on a pair of Nightmare Before Christmas, Jack Skelington custom shoes.

BOOM!

Jack Skelington

See you all later!

2015 August polymer update

So here is my recent work.  I've been lazy, having a good old time in San Francisco.  I didn't get as much done as I would have liked to have.  But, none the less I did work.  Here you go!

Glinda the good witch from Wizard of Oz

Redo: Strawberry Panic, Nagisa

Oogie Boogie Glow in the dark

Oogie Boogie Glow in the dark

Jack and Sally from Nightmare before Christmas

 

 

Check up with me on Wednesday for some old school art I haven't displayed before.

July 2015 Polymer update

Hello all!  This time I didn't mean to stay away so long, but my computer got a virus and was out of commission for like 3 weeks.  So, here are the few pieces done recently, not as many as I would have like, but I got a new position at work and have been pre-occupied.  I went to Disneyland one day and it was awesome.  In fact, the first photo is my Minnie and Mickey earrings made for the day trip.  Honestly the only thing about my outfit that day that went right.  You would be surprised at how hot 82 degrees is when you are in it all day.  Bleh, hot! 

 

Up's Carl Fredrickson, bow tie, and Ellie Badge

 

Mariah Carey

 

Minnie Scrap clay badges

 

Sadness from Inside Out

 

Joy from Inside Out

 

Fisherman with Bass and R2S fishing hat

 

 

 



Tiana and Naveen from Princess and the Frog



Thanks for visiting, hope to see you again with a few new things.  And maybe some better photos too. :)