Polymer clay tips and tricks #4: Glazing

Last but not least. You've cooked your charm and it's perfect! The color is a little flat and you'd like to revive it. Ok, then here are the tips I have to glazing.

 

Step #1

Which glaze to use?

I have only liked the price and finish of one glaze type and brand... Varathane polyurethane water based gloss glaze. There are three versions, satin, gloss and high gloss but I use gloss. Sculpey has a glaze that is exactly the same but, it comes in such a small container I will not ever buy it again. It's just not worth the cost. It may seem watery and milky, but I like that. I can tell I'm actually doing something and I don't have a horrible thick layer on my charm so all the details still show. Plus, it lasts forever. I moved my Varathane from the can to a plastic flip-cap water bottle I got from the $1 tree and then for safe measure I duck tape sealed the lid to the bottle.

Step #2

How to apply it?

I use a round paint brush and just apply in thin strokes. If it's too thick it pools. Pooling is a little difficult to remove and it can also leave a bead of glaze on the bottom of the charm while it drip dries. Some people have suggested dipping into the glaze but, I find it is too much effort for a "fully coated" result. I don't like dabbing the bottom of my charm to take off the excess for a minute or more just to save time on brush strokes. Think about it this way, if you can't reach it with a brush and you can't see it, you probably won't miss glaze on it.

Step #3

How long until it's dry?

Only about 10-15 minutes. Sometimes faster depending on the room's temperature. It should appear to be clear, visually. Although, when I apply the glaze, unless it's pooled, I can't see the cloudy coloring, so I just touch it lightly checking for tackiness.

Step #4

How permanent is it?

Well... It will peel away without question if you just leave it after drying. No other blogs have suggested this can be a problem. They all say that the glaze stays on and is perfect. I have found that unless I take one more step I will regret it. So, I pop my charm right back in the oven and cook it for 15 minutes at 275 degrees with no preheating. Let it cool. And now you are done! 

You will notice that it is shinier and if you try to scrap the glaze off it should stay put. The glaze is not wear and tear proof, it will wear away over time. Unless you get into resin I haven't found a way around wear in tear.  My main goal is that my charms don't break and the findings don't rip out of the charms. 

Thanks for reading and see you again soon!

Polymer Clay Tips and Tricks Lesson #3: Cooking

This is the most important of all the tips I will have in this scratch the surface tips on Polymer crafting.  If you don't cook your clay just right... even if it seems good the first week, it will slowly decompose from the inside out until all you have is a crumbly nub of what used to be a fantastic charm.  How many have I cried over?  Too many.  There are no words.

So, let's fix that, and learn how to cook a perfectly cured polymer clay craft.  Phew that was a mouth full.

It's simple. The right temperature...
It was very easy for my toaster oven to temp fluctuate.  I have burned and under cooked many a project.  I've also left a horrible shiny spots on the base of my creations from where they touched the pan/ tile I cooked them on. The amount if time I cook them and how they cool matter very much.

Step #1
Containment:
What should you cook your charms in or on?
I like using casters/ loaf pans with silicon sauce bowls inside and strips of paper on top.  Then I put my charms on the paper and seal it with foil.  I know it sounds contrived but, I've found it to be the best way.  The paper helps float the charms in the bowl and free of shiny spots.  The silicon also helps with a few things, especially keeping the paper in a hammock like state to lay the charm on.  You will see the other use for the silicon later.
Sealing the charms in with aluminum is the only way I haven't burned my charms.  But, they still darken greatly.

Step #2
Temperature and cook time:
How long and at what temperature should you cook your charms?
Convection ovens are preferred.
I cook for 1.5 hours at 275 degrees and I leave it in the the oven to cool.  It is a heck of a duration and  it is worth every extra second. I used to think that Premo might have a bit of bend and that it's totally normal, but, I now disagree.  I want my charm hard as a rock. It will definitely not break.  So, that 20-30 minute cook time for every 1/4 inch thick charm will probably break if cooked in theat short a time frame.  But, if you cook for the 1.5 and leave it to cool, it seems to hold up perfectly.  It also seems good with Scupley III, from what I can tell, if it's a thicker object but, the color definitely gets darker.  Adding a little white can help with that. Also going a little lighter than you want the color to be is good too.  That way, it comes out about the color you originally wanted when the cooking process is complete.
Small note, Fimo didn't hold up very well in this cooking process.  It practically burnt, it darkens so much, and it ripped apart like it was a piece of bread.  So, I think I am going to stay away from Fimo for now.

That is literally all there is to the cooking.  You will have to modify the time based on the size but as long as it's sealed in and on paper, you should be all set!

Polymer Update November 2015

Jessie themed charm

Anne of Green Gables the Anime style charms

Samantha the All American girl doll charm



Doctor Who the Tenth Doctor

Thanks so much for coming around and seeing what I have been up to.  I will finish lesson #3 soon. It's going to be about cooking polymer clay.